For 130 km (80 miles), the Loire crosses Anjou from Montsoreau on the edge of
Touraine to La Varenne, doorway to the Atlantic, in a great loop, reflecting the
ever-changing light.
The favourite river of the Kings of France and the white tern,
Anjou owes almost everything to the Loire. It has brought precious materials,
irrigated the fields, inspired monumental buildings, and provoked ideas. It
also brings the alluvial sand, perfect for growing flowers and market
gardening. Responsible for ideas of grandeur, prosperity and the occasional
flood, the river is rightfully known as the last untamed river of Europe; a
fact that has not passed unnoticed: in December 1999, the Loire was officially
proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Whatever her mood, one thing is sure,
here in Anjou the river is at its very best.
The Loire flows through Anjou in three moods. Between Montsoreau
and the gates of Angers it is ebullient and majestic, gathering up islands
whose shores turn golden in summer to welcome migratory birds. For about 30 km
(18 miles), the right bank has a magnificent embankment "la grande levée"
which not only provides marvellous views but also protects the land behind. In
the twelfth century, the Plantagenets built the ancestors of these embankments,
(known as "turcies") which were designed not only to hold the waters
back but also to reclaim land for cultivation.
A river bearing water and sand
On the left bank a small scenic road skirts around the wooded hillsides and
produce a seemingly unending series of Romanesque churches, barge landing
places, minor stately homes, wine sellers and glowing villages.
Downstream of Angers the Loire leaves "White" Anjou and flows for a while
through "Black" Anjou and its schist slopes. Take a break at La Pointe,
Savennières, Ile de Béhuard (Béhuard island) and Chalonnes. At the foot of the
vine-covered hillsides, the riverbed breaks up into a host of smaller channels
and islands. Some, forming alluvial plains, echo in spring and summer to the
cry of the crested grebe and the illusive corncrake.
Balbuzard pêcheur
The Loire then flows through Mauges
countryside; Montjean, Saint-Florent-le-Vieil and Champtoceaux where remains of
the curious barge toll are to be seen. After this, the river seems to gather
itself as if for another onslaught before finally flowing out into the
Atlantic. This is an important valley with its sky-blue vine flowers and
teeming wildlife and here the river leaves Anjou following the tracks of the
sixteenth century French poet, Joachim du Bellay and in the wake of the
inspirational white tern.
Here in Anjou the royal Loire and her tributaries make up 4,500 km (2745
miles) of river, making this land one of the best-irrigated in France.
A place to mess about in boats, raise the excitement level in a canoe
or kayak, in fact escape completely on a river
or go
fishing with a float, a lure, a fly or a waggler. There are just
so many ways to enjoy oneself and appreciate Anjou's countryside!
